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Most boat owners find it hard to avoid boat repair completely. "Shipshape" is a term often applied to a boat in good, safe, working order. Finding out on the water that part of the boat or the boat's gear isn't working can be frustrating and dangerous. While it often takes some work to keep a boat shipshape, it should be considered part of being a good sailor and in the long run will make owning a boat more enjoyable.        Click on the Colored Text Below For Definitions !!!

Hull Damage

Hull damage usually occurs from abrupt groundings, collision with other objects, or the rotting of a  wooden hull. Significant damage to the hull may cause the boat to flood with water or produce stress cracks which may develop into hull failure at a later time.  After any significant collision or hard grounding, the boat should be hauled out of the water and the hull inspected for cracks, delamination of the fiberglass, fractures of joints, and any other damage.   If a fiberglass hull doesn’t have extensive damage, it can often be repaired in a few hours. (A word of caution concerning fiberglass: the fumes from the resin can cause breathing problems and some people can develop an allergic reaction to them.  Always perform the repair in a well ventilated space or an outside location, and wear a respirator and gloves.) For specific techniques of fiberglass application and repairs there are excellent tutorials in most libraries or on the web.  A wooden hull may develop dry rot which usually results from fresh water or rain collecting in places in the hull. If you sail on fresh water lakes or rivers, there is a higher risk. Try to minimize places in the hull that will trap fresh water – and don’t let fresh water collect.  Rotting wood takes a careful inspection to detect, and sometimes a trained experienced eye is required.  If the areas are small, they can be easily fixed using epoxies and polyurethane glues. When repairing rotten wood, structural soundness must be determined.

Rig Damage

Repairing damage to a small boat's running rigging (such as blocks, cleats, fittings, sheets, halyards, traveler and boom vang) is usually pretty straight forward. You can order the replacement part from the manufacturer, a ship's chandlery or catalog, or online. If replacing a line, use the appropriate material (i.e., polyester, pre-stretched polyester, Spectra, polypropylene, nylon,), diameter and length for its use.   Repairs to standing rigging (stays and shrouds) may be best left to a professional.  It is also good to seek professional advice when you acquire a boat that does not have all its rigging.  If you have a popular model (Laser, Sunfish, etc.) you can contact the manufacturer, or a local dealer. Damaged spars usually need to be replaced.  Damaged centerboards and daggerboards can take some fiberglass or carpentry skills to repair them.

Sail Damage

Repairing sails can be tricky, and whether or not you need to seek the services of a professional sail repairer will depend on the damage. You can sometimes repair minor damage such as small tears and punctures yourself by applying a self-adhesive patch made for that purpose.  Damage from wear on the foot or luff is more difficult to repair and may need to be done by a sail repair shop. Batten pockets is another area to check for holes, tears or ripped stitching.

Trailer Repair

With good maintenance a trailer will last a long time. Wheel bearings (go to the Boat Transportation page for more information on maintenance) and lights should be checked on a regular basis. If a light doesn’t work, it may require just replacing the bulb or finding a loose connection or a worn spot in the wiring. The tires should be inflated to the recommended pressure. Check the tires for worn treads and cracks in the sidewalls.

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